Ready to conquer the world’s highest tropical peak?
If you have experience climbing and hiking at altitudes above 5,000 meters, then this mountain might be just what you’re looking for.
What will you see on this expedition?
Pick up from the hotel near the Plaza de Armas in Huaraz.
Mira la ruta y las distancias aquí: Google Maps
Huascarán, also known as Mataraju, is a Quechua word meaning “Twin Snow-Capped Mountains” because it has two peaks: the North Summit (6,655 meters above sea level) and the South Summit (6,768 meters above sea level). The latter is the main summit and the one most frequently climbed during the season. Huascarán is also the highest snow-capped mountain in all of Peru (6,867 meters above sea level), hence its nickname, “The Roof of the Country.” It is located on the border of the provinces of Yungay and Carhuaz, just 15 kilometers from populated areas, within the national park of the same name.
The great colossus, unlike other high mountains on the American continent, is one of the most difficult to climb, since during its ascent you will have to overcome crevasses, seracs, avalanches and gullies more than 30 meters high, which make the ascent to camp 1 and 2 quite a challenge, therefore, do not forget to take technical climbing courses beforehand.
If your goal is to eventually conquer a 7,000-meter peak or climb the Himalayas, then this ascent will definitely help you gain a great deal of experience and test your endurance.
Finally, we also recommend taking one of the climbing packages to the following snow-capped mountains in this same region as preparation: Tocllaraju (6,032 m), Pisco (5,752 m), among many others.
We’ll have breakfast very early in the morning in Huaraz. Musho will be the starting point for our hike towards the Huascarán refuge (4820 meters above sea level). We’ll use the refuge’s facilities, and our staff will provide food and hydration. Afterwards, our mountain guides will give a short safety briefing, which will be useful for the following day, as well as an orientation on the use of all our facilities, safety, and hygiene. Finally, we’ll spend the night at the refuge.
Breakfast at 7:00 am, then we depart for Camp 1 in an orderly fashion, single file. The first section towards the moraine is on solid rock. Upon reaching the glacier, we will use our ice climbing equipment (harness, helmet, and crampons). Once roped up, we continue to Camp 1, led by our mountain guides, for a total of 4 hours. At Camp 1, the cooking and porter staff will be waiting with a hot, rehydrating drink and our lunch for the afternoon.
Our mountain guides will then give you another briefing on how to use the camp, the location of the restrooms, and the safety procedures to follow while moving around within it.
We begin our activities at 3:00 AM, have a hot drink, rope up with all our climbing gear, and then set off for Camp 2. The first stage involves navigating some crevasses, which we overcome by zigzagging.
Once there, we’ll encounter slopes between 40 and 50 degrees. Afterward, we’ll hike up a 20-degree slope to Camp 2, where our staff will have set up camp. There, we can rest and recover throughout the day, awaiting summit day, when we’ll climb to over 6,000 meters above sea level.
At midnight, we’ll wake up for a hot breakfast, rope up, and set off for the summit of Huascarán. The first part of the ascent is along a flat glacier, followed by a zigzag on slopes of 30 to 40 degrees, and then we’ll climb walls of 50 to 70 meters (between 50 and 60 degrees of incline).
Once we’ve overcome the steep slopes, at 6,500 meters above sea level, we’ll continue on a much safer glacier with a 30 to 40-degree incline that will take us directly to the summit, arriving around 8:00 a.m. After a short photo session, we’ll begin our descent along the same route to Camp 2. At Camp 2, our guides will assess the terrain and the group’s physical condition to decide whether to descend to Camp 1 or Camp Moraine (Refuge).
We will wake up at 4:00 am, after a hot drink we will rope up and descend by the same route of the gully to Camp 1, later to Moraine Camp, approximately 4 to 5 hours, where we will meet the rest of the expedition, having dinner and a toast of honor, and signing of flags with everyone and words from the different participants, delegations and staff.
Breakfast at 7:00 am. Afterward, we will travel to the village of Musho, where our transport will take us to the city of Huaraz. A farewell dinner will be held at Perú Vertical. End of the expedition.
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